Hakodate History: Japan’s First International Port City
TLDR
Hakodate was one of the first Japanese ports opened to foreign trade in 1859, shaping its multicultural identity.
The city blends Japanese, Western, and Ainu influences, visible in its architecture, churches, and cuisine.
Key sites include Motomachi’s hillside churches, the Goryōkaku star fort, and preserved herring mansions.
Today, Hakodate stands as a living museum of Japan’s encounter with the outside world.
Hakodate: Gateway to the World
Nestled at the southern tip of Hokkaido, Hakodate occupies a pivotal place in Japanese history. In 1859, under the Treaty of Amity and Commerce, it became one of the first Japanese ports (alongside Yokohama and Nagasaki) to open to foreign trade after centuries of national seclusion.
This transformed Hakodate into a bustling hub of cultural exchange. Western merchants, Russian Orthodox priests, British consuls, and Japanese settlers converged in this northern frontier town, leaving behind architecture, religion, and traditions that still shape its character.
Motomachi: The Neighbourhood Where East Meets West
The hillside district of Motomachi best embodies Hakodate’s international past. Here, foreign traders and missionaries built consulates, churches, and homes overlooking the port.
Highlights:
Hakodate Orthodox Church (1859): Built for Russian residents, its onion domes remain an icon of the city.
Motomachi Roman Catholic Church: A striking Gothic structure that still holds services.
Old British Consulate: Now a museum and tearoom, reflecting Hakodate’s British diplomatic presence.
Walking through Motomachi feels like stepping into a time when Hakodate was Japan’s cosmopolitan frontier.
Goryōkaku: The Star Fort of Hakodate
Hakodate was also the stage for one of Japan’s last samurai battles. Goryōkaku Fort, completed in 1866, was Japan’s first Western-style star fort. It became the headquarters of the short-lived Republic of Ezo during the Boshin War (1868–69), where former Tokugawa loyalists made their final stand against imperial forces.
Today, the fort is a park famous for cherry blossoms in spring and offers panoramic views from Goryōkaku Tower.
The Herring Mansions: Wealth from the Sea
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Hakodate prospered from the booming herring industry. Wealthy fishing magnates built sprawling wooden residences known as herring mansions (nishin goten), many of which survive today. These homes showcase the importance of the sea in Hakodate’s economy and culture.
Ainu and Hakodate’s Indigenous Roots
Before international trade, Hakodate was already a point of contact between the Japanese and the Ainu, Hokkaido’s indigenous people. The very name “Hakodate” is thought to derive from the Ainu word hak-cate, meaning “shallow cove.” The city’s history is incomplete without acknowledging its place as a meeting ground of cultures long before foreign ships arrived.
Hakodate Today: Living History
Modern Hakodate has preserved its layered identity. From morning markets filled with fresh seafood to churches on Motomachi’s slopes, from the international cemetery to the star-shaped fort, the city remains a living museum of Japan’s encounter with global modernity.
References:
Japan Guide. “Hakodate Travel Guide.” https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5350.html
Japan Guide. “Motomachi.” https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5356.html
Japan Guide. “Goryōkaku.” https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5352.html
Hakodate Official Travel Guide. “History of Hakodate.” https://www.hakodate.travel/en
Hokkaido Treasure Island Travel. “Hakodate History and Culture.” https://hokkaido-treasure.com/column/089/
